The Russians are coming? (Or, rather, they came and left their imprint on our stages. ) After the revolution Madame Karinska arrived in Paris, where she first collaborated with Cecil Beaton and Christian Berard on costumes. Magic struck when she designed costumes for a young ex- Ballets Russes choreographer , George Balanchine and his new company, Les Ballets 1933. Both artists eventually came to New York. While Balanchine explored the boundaries of dance, Karinska created appropriately sophisticated costumes for him. She cut on a biais for freedom of movement. She layered subtle tones for ethereal effect. ( swipe for examples in pic #2 and 3–La Valse costumes.) She simplified old tropes and invented the frothy powderpuff tutu to replace the unwieldy wired “pancake” tutu theretofore the norm. Her designs, modern classics, are still worn to this day. (The NYCB costume department periodically and meticulously remakes them.) The costumes for “Jewels “ (in film clip) display the breadth of her talent and sensitivity to music from the ethereal romantic tutu for Emeralds with otherworldly music by Faure, the jazzy tunic for Rubies to accompany Stravinsky’s cheeky score, and the regal white powderpuff tutu to Tchaikovsky. All can be seen up close and personal, intermingling with ballet-inspired dresses by Dior and Schiaparelli at The FIT costume museum’s terrific new show Ballerina: Fashion’s Modern Muse. .....#fit #balletstyle #karinska #jewels #NYCB #newyorkcityballet #balanchine #tutu #ballerinafashion
Birds of a feather? Certainly with its buoyant skirts (often tulle)and narrow bodices the New Look channeled the ballet tutu. Not surprisingly, two of its early proponents, Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain, had been close collaborators at Lucien Lelong and were both fascinated by the architecture of clothes. Whereas Dior is deceptively elegant, Balmain often exhibits a studied attention to embellishment. Here, at the current exhibit at FIT, Ballerina: Fashion’s Modern Muse, an extraordinary Balmain debutante gown , poised for flight, with feathers outrageously painted to resemble , hmm, exaggeratedly long pheasant feathers (to my eye, monochromatic peacocks.) What do you see, keen shots?............. #ballerinafashion’smodernmuse. #FIT #museumatfit #pierrebalmain #birdsofafeather #christiandior #thenewlook #ballerina #lucienlelong #theglamouryears @hamishbowlescollection #feathers #feathersandfashion
What extraterrestrial power does it take to soar? Anna Pavlova’s swan costume at FIT’s new exhibit , Ballerina: Fashion’s Modern Muse, brought to mind the Ballets Russes dancer Lydia Sokolova’s insights on Pavlova’s affinity with birds: when she walked into her aviary, the birds behaved as if she was one of them. When she called her pet swan from the pond in her garden, the bird came to her immediately and she folded her arms around its neck and whispered to her. And her apocryphal last words were “Where is my swan costume?” The very costume—here!—naturally, pulses with bird-like energy. One of dozens of extraordinary discoveries at FIT. And perfect timing—Swan Lake opens this Friday—Valentine’s Day—at New York City Ballet..............#ballerinafashion’smodernmuse #annapavlova #lydiasokolova #swan #swanlake #FIT #nycb #ballet
Lost in Friday afternoon and Chips Channon. Call me when the abdication crisis is over. After the King, no one seemed to love Wallis Windsor more than Channon. She refused cocktails for whiskey and water. And Princess Marina’s black stockings were so sheer they appeared flesh-colored....#chipschannon #happyfriday #lostinabook #drian
Two male Maasai giraffes vie for dominance. Those graceful necks are also powerful. One good swing can knock one down. .They also are adept at kicking off to the side—so the trick is to always stand in FRONT of a giraffe. Just in case........Meanwhile the birds are blithely singing in the background......#giraffes #boyswillbeboys #masaimara #safari style
Bored with the usual marble bath? Mobile safari baths of waxed canvas stretched on a teak frame, with Champagne, are just the thing! Overlooking the Maasai Mara, they are fabulous for contemplating life..... #bestbathroom #bathtub #bathtubgoals #maasaimara #safaristyle #masaimara #safaribath #outdoorbath #kenya
Who knew lions climbed trees ? I didn’t.
An early morning game drive; then afternoon at camp with its panoramic view of the mara. Going native and rather keen on my new finery. Maasai necklace and textile, Kushite choker ...While the men are herding, the Maasai women are hard at work in the village, building homes, tending children, porting bundles, and creating their distinctive beadwork, some worn everyday day (the bracelets, belts, and ropes seen on nearly any man on any day, and the very showy collars, bibs, and earrings worn for ceremonies.) I plan to wear it all, all the time.....#masaimara #kenya #thanksgivings #thanksgivinginthemara #safaristyle
Rainy season in the mara. It is so green it might as well be Chatsworth with zebra substituting for deer. Wild mint permeates the air. The shallow soil with its sand base acts as quicksand. Seasoned guides and drivers are as knowledgeable as to where to stop to avoid sinking as to spying key footprints. The first photo is, of course, the New York Public Library shot. #newyorkpubliclibrary📚 #nypl #Thanksgiving s #thanksgivinginthemara #lion #lioness #zebra #giraffe
Breakfast in the bush. Up at 5 am, out before 6 to catch the morning rituals. By 9, as it had slowed down considerably, we stopped for breakfast at the border to the Serengeti. I am wrapped in a Masai textile. #kenya #maasaimara #masaimara #thanksgivings #thanksgivinginthemara #safaristyle
Arrival on the camp landing strip....#maasaimara #masaimara #kenya #thanksgivings #thanksgivinginthemara #safaristyle
Breakfast, tea, and virtual giraffes. Elegant but voracious creatures.@giraffemanor #thanksgivinginkenya #giraffemanor #rothschildgiraffe
Literally sleeping with Rothschild giraffes, an endangered species which can be identified by their smooth-edged markings and white lower legs (the Masai giraffe has the jagged patterning and fully marked legs.) At the Rothschild giraffe sanctuary and hotel, @giraffemanor #rothschildgiraffe #giraffemanor #safaristyle
When Josephine speculated that the rewards of the Egyptian campaign would pay for the purchase of a rundown house outside of Paris ( and why not? He, to date, always returned victorious), she incurred Napoleon’s wrath. Once reconciled to the house,he called in Percier and Fontaine for a full-scale renovation ( though the Consul government put a lid on expenses this time. ) The results? A world of tents and tent poles, black and white floors and busts, Josephine ‘s 250 varieties of roses and free ranging llamas, kangaroos, and zebras. Described by Josephine ´s daughter as a « delicious » retreat of great happiness , Malmaison also represented the synthesis of Empire style...And a temporary escape from archival boxes and mid-century fashion press for me.
A hidden corner of Paris—a magical 17th c house—with writer and historian David Gaillardon.
“Are you charm? Or sex appeal?” Brigitte Bardot before the phenomenon of BB. Might she have been amused—as I—by these cover lines that imply in 1954 these qualities were mutually exclusive? While contemplating her answer, and stardom, BB wears Givenchy. And why not? The dress manages charming and subtly sexy quite well.
What do you think? Is Brigitte Bardot better as a brunette ? This was the overwhelming question of today’s research. BB, 18 years old, 1953 and on the cover of Elle. PS she is wearing an Hermès jacket.
Under the eaves of the Musée des Arts Decoratifs . Another day, another research destination! ...Swipe to see my happy little perch surrounded be enticing boxes of archives. And the dreamy view from my window.
Study break! Sharing the Salle Labrouste with the world. It’s the sort of room that tempts discovery. It also represents 1850s state- of-the-art construction using 16 cast iron (rather than stone ) pillars to support 9 domes, each with its own skylight. The core of the fine and decorative arts collection was supplied by the long-sighted couturier and arts patron Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) ............#jacquesdoucet #booksmakearoom #bibliothequenationaledefrance #librariesoftheworld
Contrary to popular belief, not all Parisians are on vacation. Here at the Bibliothèque National surrounded by Madeleine Castaing-blue lampshades and sometimes draped in the stylish red shawls supplied by the library (it is raining today and not so warm) many bend over books and eagerly open long- unopened archive boxes . Who knows what will be found ? Once again, in that happiest of places—a library.