When Josephine speculated that the rewards of the Egyptian campaign would pay for the purchase of a rundown house outside of Paris ( and why not? He, to date, always returned victorious), she incurred Napoleon’s wrath. Once reconciled to the house,he called in Percier and Fontaine for a full-scale renovation ( though the Consul government put a lid on expenses this time. ) The results? A world of tents and tent poles, black and white floors and busts, Josephine ‘s 250 varieties of roses and free ranging llamas, kangaroos, and zebras. Described by Josephine ´s daughter as a « delicious » retreat of great happiness , Malmaison also represented the synthesis of Empire style...And a temporary escape from archival boxes and mid-century fashion press for me.
A hidden corner of Paris—a magical 17th c house—with writer and historian David Gaillardon.
“Are you charm? Or sex appeal?” Brigitte Bardot before the phenomenon of BB. Might she have been amused—as I—by these cover lines that imply in 1954 these qualities were mutually exclusive? While contemplating her answer, and stardom, BB wears Givenchy. And why not? The dress manages charming and subtly sexy quite well.
What do you think? Is Brigitte Bardot better as a brunette ? This was the overwhelming question of today’s research. BB, 18 years old, 1953 and on the cover of Elle. PS she is wearing an Hermès jacket.
Under the eaves of the Musée des Arts Decoratifs . Another day, another research destination! ...Swipe to see my happy little perch surrounded be enticing boxes of archives. And the dreamy view from my window.
Study break! Sharing the Salle Labrouste with the world. It’s the sort of room that tempts discovery. It also represents 1850s state- of-the-art construction using 16 cast iron (rather than stone ) pillars to support 9 domes, each with its own skylight. The core of the fine and decorative arts collection was supplied by the long-sighted couturier and arts patron Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) ............#jacquesdoucet #booksmakearoom #bibliothequenationaledefrance #librariesoftheworld
Contrary to popular belief, not all Parisians are on vacation. Here at the Bibliothèque National surrounded by Madeleine Castaing-blue lampshades and sometimes draped in the stylish red shawls supplied by the library (it is raining today and not so warm) many bend over books and eagerly open long- unopened archive boxes . Who knows what will be found ? Once again, in that happiest of places—a library.
WWDD? What Would Dior Do in Dallas? Pay his respects to retailing visionaryNieman Marcus (swipe)? Linger in the fascinating@florencemuller99 Dior exhibit at the DMA museum? (Who doesn’t love to read about himself, after all?)Come to hear me talk about Victor Grandpierre and the branding of Dior? New friends, old friends ( swipe to see my long-ago assistant with whom I share a passion for Saarinen) during my Dior pilgrimage to Dallas. ..... #vendomepress #victorgrandpierre #dior #christiandior #diorandhisdecorators #hautecouturehighdesign #maureenfooter #hautecouturehighdesign #theglamouryears #georgesgeffroy #citadelles #hamishbowles #dioretsesdecorateurs @vendomepress #ionlyweardior Necklace and bracelet by sculptor #hervevanderstraeten. #saarinentable #saarinen @knollinc #dallas #dallasmuseumofart #latenightfridays #niemanmarcus @niemanmarc
Geoffrey Beene, could we have a little more silk gingham fantasy, please?? Shall we revive the eye makeup too? Modeled by Princess Elizabeth of Toro—isn’t she fabulous?! . Harper’s Bazaar, February 1970. Photo Bill King. ....#princesselizabethoftoro #harpersbazaar #geoffreybeene #billkingphotography #seventiesfashion #americanstyle
In November 1959 the Duchess of Windsor purchased (in addition to numerous Balenciagas) a suede and knit ensemble at Gres. And really, wouldn’t you wear this suede jacket and bulky sweater NOW ? (Let’s ignore the sad fact of global warming.). Madame Gres the Timeless. Vogue Paris November 1959. Of course we got this delicious fact from an archived copy of Women’s Wear Daily. .....#madamegres #alixgres #duchessofwindsor @vogueparis #timelessstyle #theglamouryears #balenciagathemaster
Jean Dessès—best known for chiffon numbers draped à la Grecque—surprises with this buoyant confection.John Fairchild recorded that Dessès was among the few couturiers who could “ sketch, cut, finish, and even iron his completed model...[and ] he has few enemies and many friends, a rare thing in couture living.”! Much to learn about Desses! Photographed by Norman Parkinson. Vogue Paris, April 1950. ....#jeandesses #frenchcouture #fashionphotography #normanparkinson #the glamour years #hautecouture #greekstyle
A dashing blue sky and a charming corner in Prague—just the place for the red, white and blue. Happy Independence Day and may we all be true to the intent of the Founding Fathers.
Velasquez chic chez Dior with perfect punctuation: a glimpse of a red pump. Everyone was using point d’esprit that year, but this is the infanta dress I crave. Vogue Paris April 1955. Photo: Henry Clarke. ....#dior #theglamouryears #infantastyle #Spanishstyle #hautecouturehighdesign #diorandhisdecorators #pariscouture #henryclarkephotographer
Preening and posing in Prague. In the gardens of Waldstein Palace. .....#prague #proudasapeacock #waldsteingarden #praguespring
A gasp then a sigh. High baroque in Prague by master architect Dietzenhofer. C 1703.
Do you agree with Dior that Balenciaga is the master of all couturiers ? ( Even the exacting Coco Chanel agreed on this point.) I am always struck by his authoritative poise, dignity and drama. The model here is Regine Debrise, a beauty editor at Vogue Paris who occasionally—and rather spectacularly—filled in as a model. Irving Penn for French Vogue, October 1950. ................#balenciagalover #balenciaga #dior #christiandior #parisstyle #greenpower #greenwithenvy #vogueparis #theglamouryears #frenchbeauty #balenciagaparis #chanel
Is there anything more charming than this Dior halter dress in white ottoman? Paris Vogue, November 1952. photo by Frances Mc Laughlin.
Travel alert! Ten years in the making, the Louvre is about to mount the comprehensive exhibit on Leonardo. Imagine the fetes of diplomacy, negotiation skills deployed to secure the loans—not to mention the insurance —-to collect all his work in one place. I for one am scheming to be in to Paris around exhibition dates.
Chanel’s Villa La Pausa—has there ever been a more personal model of austere luxury ? Mademoiselle transformed haunted memories into tranquility at this house on the Côte d’Azur. She sent her architect to see the convent in Aubazine where she was raised as an abandoned child to copy the stair rail and ribbed vaults . (Quite possibly too, they referenced the house of Eugenia Errazuriz in Biarritz, where Chanel had a boutique at the time.) The result as first seen in 1930: spacious and spare, free of both trauma and constraint. Swipe to see Mademoiselle on the poised sweep of stair ( and note the restless shadow!) the spare and spacious hall, the near-sacred cloister. It is perfect. Yet oddly over time—by 1934 or so, baroque elements appear—gilt wood mirrors, aigrettes,pelmets—as if, once freed, she could soar with (judicious) flights of fancy. ...........#cocochanel #villalapausa #roquebrune #eugeniaerrazuriz #aubazineabbey #cloisters #conventchic
Architect Pierre Barbe Part 3: THE MODERNIST. (And doesn’t each project seem yet another architectural LBD? ? ) To wit: Library in the Var with stainless steel balcony for another lucky Schlumberger client. Next—library in a chateau in Alsace. 1932, clean walnut paneling, recessed bookcases, and Renaissance mantel; deco music room in Paris, 1932, note organ pipes in calyx of stairwell. Next, reductive stairwell, 1932, in one of the very rare international modern houses in Neuilly (this house by Barbe is now listed in the historic register.) And finally, back to Anne Gruner- Schlumberger ‘s compound in Provence, greatroom of unfurling rhythms of bays, coffers, oak doors and Lalanne sheep benches. A worthy successor to the Noailles library by JM Frank (and apologies for the challenges of scanning a book well!).......#pierrebarbe #lalanne #librariesofinstagram #staircases #stairwells #frencharchitecture #provencestyle #schlumberger #neuilly #parismodern #artdeco